I am tipsy on beer a couple of hours before I photograph my friend's wedding in Kilkenny. The air is thick, like the tobacco I have been smoking, making me parched as I walk over the River Nore to the 180 year old house I am staying in.
Opening the door inebriated is like trying to solve a puzzle. I struggle to simultaneously twist and turn the key and push with enough force before I hear Joe the owner's jolly old laugh and he helps me out.
Earlier that morning, I was treated to an Irish breakfast: fresh bread, home-made jam, muesli and fresh fruits. Typically it would also include dairy, but I stuck to oat milk. Light filled the breakfast room as I slowly munched away, with a tea and a book by side.
The walls of the stairs were a deep blue like the Irish Sea on a miserable cloudy day; I rushed down the winding wooden whirpool out to town.
What makes Kilkenny truly special is its rich history and preservation of culture. It has roots back to the late sixth century when monks gathered at St. Canice's Cathedral; it was the medieval capital of Ireland and the place where the only witch trials in Ireland took place.
Now it is known as Ireland's Medieval Mile, where narrow cobblestone streets, businesses run by the same families for centuries, historic sites and traditional arts and crafts are celebrated.
Stretching from the top of St. Canice's Cathedral to Kilkenny Castle, it is a town of living history which should be walked through.
My favourite place was the Medieval Mile Museum, a 13th century cathedral which had been converted into a modern museum to showcase Kilkenny's history. It also happened to be where my dear friends would be married. But more on that later.
The climb up the narrow, ninth century round tower of St. Canice's is definitely not one for claustrophobes, with moments were I ducked, weaved and crawled my way to the top.
The views of the cemetery beneath and Kilkenny were stunning. The interior of the cathedral was also stunning, although I was short on time and decided not to photograph inside.
A fort in the 12th century which was then converted into a castle in the early 13th century, Kilkenny Castle gave a magnificent insight to the height of the powerful Butler family who lived there for 500 years and heavily shaped the town.
The restoration of the library, sky blue hallway, bedrooms and the gallery are impressive, and the grounds and ornamental gardens made for a comfortable, slow afternoon there.
But then, in the spirit of my travels, my lens broke. The wedding I was about to photograph was only three hours away.
In a flurry, I ran to the only photography shop in town, upstairs from the local pharmacy. The lens couldn't be fixed, but I could borrow something similar for 50 quid. I had no other choice and was glad I conjured up a solution with such little time.
On my way back to the house, I saw Rees and James having beers at the pub and decided to drink my fears away. The two smokes may have helped too.
And so I am a little loose from the grog as Joe lets me back into the house. I eat bread and hope I am not red when I show up in an hour. I take a shower and get dressed quickly. I spend too much time fixing my bow tie I bought for two quid at an op shop in Dublin and styling my hair so my fringe stays up. I test the lens and hope I won't let my friends down.
I head down the stairs and run into Joe and Niamh. They both give me a heartwarming look.
"You look beautiful Thomas."
I walk off to the wedding.
© 2026 Thomas Feng
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