From the mountains we descended into the fruitful Andean jungle, where avocados, figs, coffee beans and granadillas - my new favourite fruit - blossomed in the suddenly humid, vaporous conditions. Waterfalls crashed from atop snowy peaks down into rivers. Loose rocks fell by the cliffs. A misstep or any lack of focus would prove fatal.
My body was loving the new conditions; they felt more familiar to my Australian eyes, though I was in the depths of a South American jungle. Perhaps it was a rush of adrenaline from climbing up a mountain and seeing snow for the first time or it was the thought of hot springs, but the entire group descended to our campsite like it was The Fast and the Furious: Tokyo Drift.
We reached our campsite two hours early. Two fluffy black dogs took post on Pride Rock on the lookout for any danger. Given our early arrival, our muscles were able to relax for two hours in steaming pools down the road. Although we ended up being swarmed by young local schoolkids curious about us and our thoughts on Peru.
A resident parrot wowed visitors with its striking colours (and a striking sharp beak!) and odd desire to unorthodoxly climb a bench.
Over dinner, one of the Canadian mountain goats Derek would be reunited with a reincarnation of his childhood dog and they would become best friends for a night.
Angel set-up a bonfire and we sat around drinking Cusquena beers as he sang various reggae songs. He shared stories of Inca culture, his life and his family. Smoke covered his body and likely filled his lungs.
Awful EDM music played in the background which somewhat ruined how beautiful and authentic the bonfire was.
The next day was an absolute tease. We climbed up Llactapampa, a mountain which faces the West-facing terraces of Machu Picchu on the descent from the peak. On the way, we had a view of our campsite Chulay and the rest of the valley.
Upon our descent, we caught a glimpse of Machu Picchu through the clouds: a small grey stone fort in the thick of lush Andean jungle.
After climbing and descending Llactapampa, we were in Hidroelectric - one of the final stops on the railroad in Machu Picchu's reserve park. It was another 13km hike along the railway tracks to reach Aguas Calientes, an expensive tourist town at the base of Machu Picchu.
This was my least favourite part of the hike: it was difficult walking and finding a rhythm on small, loose rocks. It was also flat, which would usually be considered a relief but it was boring for 13km!
Nevertheless, it felt very much like Stand By Me as the whole group walked on or alongside the rail line in the searing heat.
We'd walked 70km in four days to be here and we were almost at the end of our hike.
For the final 3km a stray dog whom we named Pisco followed us the entire way. He was adorable and hilarious, he would become distracted by a plant and fall behind but would run enthusiastically back to the front of the pack.
I'm not much of a dog person, but Pisco was one of my favourite dogs ever. He lifted everybody's tired spirits before the end of the day. Tomorrow we would leave for Machu Picchu at 3.30am.
At 3.30am, it was dark, crisp and foggy. We were the second group to arrive at the bridge to cross into Machu Picchu's surrounding area, before a climb up 1300m in altitude would take us to the lost city. The bridge opened at 5am, so we played cards and ate breakfast while waiting.
Climbing up yourself rather than catching a bus (first bus leaves at 5.30am and arrives at 6am) means that you can be the first to arrive in Machu Picchu. By 5am there was a long line of people waiting to get in, so the climb was done single file and it was up to you to keep up with the pace.
The climb up was steep, manic and seemingly never-ending - it felt like triple the length of the Thousand Steps in Upper Ferntree Gully in Melbourne. At 5.51, we arrived at the front gate of Machu Picchu, ten minutes before it opened. It was tough and by the end I fucking hated stairs, but we beat the bus which was thrilling!
At 6am, we were part of the first twenty people who entered Machu Picchu that day and busloads of tourists were arriving. I really recommend climbing up yourself if your legs will permit. There was a greater sense of achievement and also a deeper understanding of the scale of the city, the civilisation and life in the mountains.
Note: photos of the stairs were taken on my way down which is why there is clear daylight.
We made it. A lost civilisation rediscovered less than 100 years ago.
Machu Picchu's stone walls hide various temples and the sophistication, knowledge and customs of the Incas until you're inside an intimate terrace, learning about a life 800 years ago from a direct descendant.
The city could hold up to 1200 people. The scale, architecture and technology is incredible.
The fog makes Machu Picchu feel mystical, like you're in a game where you have to climb walls and roam around an ancient village on a quest. Be prepared to wait, especially in the morning. Fog would roam in and out in the space of 30 seconds.
The sky usually clears at around 10am most days, but no promises are made if you go during wet season (late November - March). We walked up to the Sun Gate which gave us a wide-ranging perspective on Machu Picchu.
There was also an interesting Inca footbridge on the side of a mountain cliff. This provided some perspective on perhaps why Machu Picchu was never found by Spanish colonisers: the Incas burnt bridges and cut off various entrances to the mountain when news reached that Cusco had been conquered.
There was also a viewpoint of Llactapampa mountain and the Andes ranges behind. It was humbling to see how far we had walked.
I am still in disbelief over being in Machu Picchu. I hiked five days to arrive there. I climbed mountains, fought altitude sickness, saw snow for the first time, passed through the jungle, met some incredibly lovely people and most importantly learned a lot about Inca culture.
I don't think I can single out the experience of being in Machu Picchu without thinking about the hike. My body was so tired and sore from the previous four days that I was ready to leave to go back to bed before midday.
But hiking to Machu Picchu was one of the greatest, most challenging things I have ever done and will ever do. Being there was just the cherry on top and the significance of the experience will only grow with time.
The entire South America trip has been electrifyingly reinvigorating for me. It has reminded me of my own zest for adventure, travel and life; to not take life for granted, and to explore and forever explore more.
Love always,
Thomas xx
© 2026 Thomas Feng
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