Salkantay

Seeing snow for the first time

By Thomas Feng

November 9^th, 2017

ola peru!

This is the first of two blog posts on my five day hike to Machu Picchu via the Salkantay trail.

Another day, another overnight bus. This time from Copacabana to Cusco.

As I crossed the border into Peru, I was treated to an amazing sunset, the rare sight of flamingos flying and paved roads.

first steps

I was still sick from Uyuni during my first steps in Mollepata (2,850m), the starting point for the hike. I was in a group of ten: six Canadians (three of whom were mountain goats), two Americans, a British person and an Australia (me).

Humantay mountain loomed in the distance; its base Soraypampa (3,850m) a 10km walk.

Altitude kicked in during the initial climb, the group's legs edging closer and closer to jelly with every metre. This was going to be a tough five days.

Soon we were walking alongside channels which bring water to the people from the mountains.

Fortuitously, two giant adult Andean condors majestically soared a few metres over us; we had never seen them before and usually they do not fly so close to people. Their spread wings and shadows felt like gargantuan pterodactyls hovering over us.

A few tenuous crossings later, we arrived at our first campsite Soraypampa before lunchtime.

humantay lake

After a fulfilling lunch and an altitude sickness nap for me, we climbed up to Humantay Lake, 4300m above sea level.

When we began, neighbouring mountains were thundering and the rain began to pour. The climb over uneven rock was steep, a 400m increase in altitude in 3km.

Our group, led by our guide Angel and the three Canadian mountain goats set a cracking pace. Literally. A one and a half hour climb was done in 45 minutes. My body cracked and I lagged behind the group by 5-10 minutes. The combination of rain, altitude and sickness meant I had to slow down.

When we reached the top, the sky cleared and a rainbow appeared above our campsite. It was if the mountains were elated for us and wanted to show themselves off.

The lake was incredible; sitting below the peaks of Humantay (5930m), as snow and runoff from the mountain filled the lake. Unfortunately my camera couldn't give an idea of its size and scale.

Being Australian, I had never been so close to a snow-capped mountain before. A love-heart appeared in the reflection of the lake. I was feeling the mountain's love for our group: the clear skies; the vistas of the valley and the surrounding ranges; the purity of the water.

It was phantasmagorical.

The group, supremely satisfied by our day's climb, eagerly descended to a treat of popcorn and addictive Peruvian instant hot chocolates.

salkantay

The next morning, we began our climb at 5.30am. We would be reaching the highest point of the trail, the Salkantay pass: 4,650m above sea level.

I was told there might be snow. I was ecstatic. But first we would have to climb for four hours with the most difficult part of the hike: the Seven Snakes which leads you to the pass but becomes gradually steeper and steeper the higher you walk.

There would be no photos taken during this climb. My mind was focused on each and every step up the mountain, and the last thing I needed was a heavy DSLR camera on my neck weighing my body down.

Due to the hiking competence of the group, we decided to take a shortcut prior to reaching the Seven Snakes nicknamed by Angel as the Peruvian Killer, instead of the normal route named the Gringo Killer. This saved us about 500m of walking but meant every step was as steep as the Seven Snakes.

But we made it. I was over the moon, I couldn't believe I could climb this high! Despite being completely out of breath. Despite still being sick and coughing all morning. Despite having never been in negative temperatures before.

My reward? Snow. My first time in my twenty two year old life touching snow. I rubbed it on my face. There were parts which were soft and fluffy but also hard, icy, crunchy parts. I lost my mind. I was touching different types of snow!

Sure enough, the sky began dusting snow on us. I stuck my tongue out and tasted the cool, powdery snowflakes. It was unbelievable.

Before we descended into the Andean jungle for three days more of hiking, we toasted to the Apu of the Salkantay.

The Andean people believe that their land, rivers and mountains are alive, and that the mountain's spirits (Apu) watch over them to keep them safe when they pass through.

Thank you Salkantay for bringing me to your mountain and passing through safely. Thank you for blessing the group with incredible sights and kind conditions. Thank you for making my Australian dream of touching snow a reality.