Wicklow

The Garden County

By Thomas Feng

September 20^th, 2018

Sandycove

For generations, Dubliners have made their way to Sandycove to swim at the Forty Foot, a swimming spot in the chilling Irish Sea. It was a men's-only swimming club until 1974 when a group of women protested and intruded on a regular swim; and women have swum there since.

Half an hour from Dublin by train, it is also home to the Martello Tower which would be James Joyce's last home in Ireland, although he rarely went swimming there.

Old symmetrical terraces bunch together on the sea wall to face the coast. It is a calm Irish summer day, with a gust providing relief to sunburnt locals who are far more used to the rain.

Wicklow

We leave the city and head into the hills of Wicklow, the garden county of Ireland, where the roads are narrower, the air feels crisper, and the spirit of Irish rebellion run deep.

I listened to the story of Michael Dwyer, the "Wicklow Chieftain" leading the rebels who spent five years hiding in the hills away from the British, as they built roads and barracks dedicated to his capture. Eventually, he would be sent to Australia.

Many popular TV shows and movies such as Vikings and ironically Braveheart were filmed in Wicklow, and our first stop by Loch Tay was of the "P.S I Love You Bridge".

It is quiet with not a sound to be heard, except the trickles of water nearby.

Loch Tay

We head back up to road to Loch Tay, more commonly known as The Guinness Lake.

On certain days, the dark, murky water and the white sand in its oval shape make it look like a frothy pint of Guinness in the middle of the mountains. Only in Ireland.

I take a moment to relax. My shoulders loosen, I feel a gentle breeze and I marvel at the world.

Glendalough

In the afternoon we head to Glendalough, home to a sixth century monastery in the honour of St. Kevin who resided there until his death. Despite invasions from the Vikings, the Normans and the British, monks would dedicate their lives to building and rebuilding their home.

Around the monastery are the Glendalough upper and lower lakes, which are tranquil swimming spots in the heart of the forest filled with sunbathers in the summer. I walk up to the lakes on my own in a trance, feeling the need to slow down. I stop by the food stalls and buy hot chips and a soft drink, as a small treat for a wonderful day.

Being in Wicklow gave me perspective on how much I needed and wanted to be out of the city. It gave me space to reflect and process what had been, and what was about to come.