It was always the plan to enter Hong Kong briefly before re-entering China. My main memory of Hong Kong up until this point had been visiting my late Grandpa in hospital six years ago and then attending his funeral five years ago.
I wanted to make better memories of this place. But given mass protests and citizen lockdowns in the months prior, I wasn't sure whether this would be possible. It had been just over a month since millions of Hong Kong citizens marching on the streets were tear-gassed by overbearing police.
Crossing from Shenzhen across the border was nerve-wracking. The crossing was upstairs from a subway station, and after a whole bunch of x-ray scans and departure forms, I crossed the bridge into the Hong Kong border patrol where there would be another set of x-ray scans and arrival forms.
After a few stamps and a few signatures, I was in. My phone buzzed madly. Notifications started streaming in through my phone from apps which had been blocked in China.
The plan was always to hang-out with my family friends Stephanie and Clarence, and then meet up with my old colleague Ebe who worked with me at the University but moved to Hong Kong for a love story of the ages. Unfortunately in my anxious and frazzled state I completely forgot where and when I was supposed catch up with Ebe and by the time I realised it was already too late.
Sorry Ebe.
Alas I'd just have to make the best of my time spent with Stephanie and Clarence. I was really lucky as both of them had spent the majority of their lives in Hong Kong and could provide a local perspective on what was happening, and knew where to stay out of trouble. Locals would be sent texts and flyers every morning on where action would likely take place and what time.
But first, wontons. We went to Mak's Noodle, which is one of the most famous noodle houses in Hong Kong. The style was definitely different to the ones I had in Shilong 石龙. The portions are tiny in comparison to most traditional places in China, but it was delicious. Be prepared to pay up, as these wontons are a premium.
Spanning 27,000 square metres, Tai Kwun Arts and Heritage District transformed the colonial era Central Police Station into a modern, contemporary arts and heritage cultural centre.
The project is popular with locals because it goes against the typical grain of old buildings being replaced, and is one of the few colonial era buildings easily accessible to the public.
We walked through the prison yards (there's a bar where you can drink in the old concrete cells), and I can feel how bizarre it is to be surrounded by bougie, luxurious, artisan food, drink and crafts available while walking through what used to be a brutal, cold concrete police barracks.
Nestled among the expensive boutiques is a library for BOOKED, an international art book fair, with soft cushions, records playing, craft beer for sale and some of Asia's best art books. It feels like a little piece of Melbourne.
Next we head to PMQ, which is the former "Police Married Quarters", where families lived for generations until the living conditions were unsuitable.
Now it's home to over 100 studios for young artists and creative entrepreneurs, and a buzzing hub on a Sunday afternoon with the local craft market. You'll literally find anything and everything crafty while exploring all of the boutiques in each studio, and the market.
My highlights are the furniture made for people and cats to enjoy together, and a watch made from the same lens as my film camera. I'm exhausted after getting lost in this creative emporium.
As the evening approaches, people are starting to rush home. There's an unfamiliar sense of space in the city for once; protests have turned tourists away, and locals aren't staying out at night unless they're considering being part of protests.
But in the CBD there's a hive of activity. 300,000 domestic helpers predominantly from the Philippines who take care of busy Hong Konger families from meals to all domestic work, are collectively enjoying their one afternoon off for the week.
They call their families back home, sell each other clothes, give each other haircuts and manicures, eat their only Filipino meal for the week, take part in weekly dance troupes; they are themselves for a day.
The rest of my time is spent couped up in my hotel room, with protesters looming in surrounding neighbourhoods. If I wasn't going back to China to be with my family and Michelle's extended family, my curiosity and solidarity with the cause would be enough for me to see it firsthand. I eat a 7/11 meal and call it a night.
I leave at 7.30am in the morning for the border hoping to be on the first train back after breakfast with my family friend, but damage has been done across the train networks and significantly halted travel. The subway is also disrupted, as is the bullet train, and five of the eight crossing points are closed.
We dash back across the city to Mong Kok to grab a ticket for the earliest cross-border bus, the only option left. She pulls a favour with a ticket lady who she's known for decades apparently and I'm on my way after we sigh with relief over yum-cha.
It's almost 5pm by the time I reach Michelle's family home in Guangzhou, which is five hours later than I expected. But I'm just glad to be safe with them after a crazy day.
What a wild 18 hours in Hong Kong.
I saw a different side to the overcrowded, corporate monolith I knew. It was a Hong Kong that valued and embraced freedom of expression through art, culture and history. I felt a determined will of the people, especially young people, who wanted to create change for a better Hong Kong in a system which wasn't working for them.
I look forward to visiting again once the restrictions worldwide ease, with more time to explore and experience the rushing colours of Hong Kong.
This was part four of five from my trip last year before COVID-19. Subscribe here or down below if you haven't yet already to stay up to date on the rest of my travels and thoughts. Hope you are coping alright, I've been spending too much time on TikTok instead of writing.
Love,
Thomas
© 2026 Thomas Feng
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